Have you ever had gemstones in your jewelry get damaged from accidental bumps? This is especially common with engagement rings, which are worn on hands that are constantly in motion. So, how can you effectively protect your gemstone? Fortunately, there are solutions—choosing the right setting style can help reduce the risk of chipping, scratching, or other damage. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at gemstone setting types that offer better protection and help you make an informed choice.
Factors That Contribute to Gemstone Damage
Before we dive in, let’s understand the main factors that affect a gemstone’s vulnerability:
1. Mohs 8Hardness
Mohs hardness is a basic measure of a gemstone’s durability—specifically, its resistance to scratching and surface wear—ranked on a scale from 1 to 10. However, it’s important to note that this scale measures scratch resistance, not a stone’s resistance to impact or its structural integrity. (For example, a gemstone might have high hardness but can still break if it has sharp corners, cleavage planes, or visible inclusions.)
2. Inclusions and Cleavage
Natural inclusions (internal flaws) and cleavage planes (directions within the crystal structure where the gem is more likely to split) can create structural weaknesses. If force is applied to these weak areas, the gemstone is more likely to crack or break. (In simple terms: gems with many inclusions or distinct cleavage planes are more prone to breakage.)
3. Gemstone Cut and Shape
A gemstone’s cut and shape directly affect how fragile it is. Faceted stones with sharp edges and pointed tips—like princess, marquise, or pear cuts—are more susceptible to chipping than round or cabochon (smooth, domed) shapes.
4. Impact and Wear
This is the most direct and common cause of gemstone damage, so we won’t elaborate too much here.
If the gemstone in your jewelry happens to be fragile, your best approach—besides avoiding impacts—is to choose a protective setting style that minimizes direct exposure to external forces. (Even for more durable gems, a protective setting can help reduce wear over time and preserve their beauty for longer.)
Protective Gemstone Setting Types
Now let’s take a look at some of the main gemstone setting styles known for their protective features, along with their specific characteristics, advantages, and drawbacks.
1. Bezel Setting
Bezel setting is one of the most well-known protective styles. It uses a metal rim that completely surrounds the gemstone, slightly covering the edge. This design creates a “safe house” for the gem. Additionally, it helps prevent the ring from snagging on clothing, hair, etc.
Pros:
- Excellent protection: Shields the edges and girdle of the gemstone from direct impact.
- High security: Holds the stone firmly in place, making it less likely to fall out.
- Comfort and snag resistance: The smooth contour prevents catching on fabric or hair.
Cons:
- Reduced brilliance: Less of the gem is exposed, limiting light entry, making the stone appear less sparkly.
- Smaller appearance: The metal rim covers part of the gem, making it look smaller than it actually is.
- Harder to clean: Small gaps between the metal and stone can be difficult to clean thoroughly.
- Not ideal for unusual shapes: Because the metal must wrap tightly around the edges, it’s harder to adapt to irregular or fancy cuts.
2. Gypsy Setting / Flush Setting
Gypsy (or flush) setting is considered one of the most secure ways to mount a gemstone. The stone is set into a drilled hole in the metal and sits flush with or slightly below the surface. Then, the surrounding metal is carefully pressed or hammered around it to hold it in place.
Pros:
- Maximum security: Offers excellent protection by keeping the stone almost fully shielded from impact.
- Smooth, snag-free surface: The flush design makes it very comfortable to wear.
- Low maintenance: Unlike prong settings, it doesn’t require regular checks for loose prongs.
- Highly durable: The integrated design has fewer points of failure.
Cons:
- Less brilliance: The small exposed surface limits how much light the stone can reflect, reducing its sparkle.
- Difficult to set: Embedding the gemstone without damage requires precise craftsmanship, especially for fancy shapes.
- Smaller appearance: The stone may appear smaller since part of it is hidden beneath the metal.
- Not suitable for soft gemstones: The setting process involves hammering, which can damage softer stones.
3. Channel Setting
In a channel setting, gemstones are set into a groove in the metal—secured between two parallel metal walls—so that the top of the stones sits flush with the metal surface. This style is commonly used on the band of a ring and often features multiple stones in a row.
Pros:
- High protection: Stones sit below the metal edge, reducing exposure to direct impact.
- Secure hold: The setting keeps stones firmly in place, minimizing the risk of loss.
- Aesthetic appeal: Creates a clean, continuous line of gemstones for a refined look.
Cons:
- Reduced brilliance: The metal walls cover the sides of the stones, limiting light entry and reflection.
- Hard to clean: Dirt can build up in the grooves, making thorough cleaning more difficult.
- Difficult to resize: Since the stones are set in a continuous row, resizing the ring can be challenging.
4. Tension Setting
This modern setting style features an open band design, where the two ends of the ring do not meet. Instead, the gemstone is held in place by the pressure (or tension) of the metal, making it appear suspended between the ring’s two ends.
Pros:
- Secure hold: When properly executed, tension settings offer surprisingly strong grip (though slightly less protective than other styles).
- Maximum brilliance: With more of the gemstone exposed, light can enter freely, enhancing sparkle.
- Modern aesthetics: Delivers a sleek, contemporary look that’s visually striking.
Cons:
- Vulnerable to extreme impact: While secure under normal wear, a strong external force could still dislodge the stone.
- Difficult to resize: Adjusting the ring size typically requires removing and resetting the stone—an expensive process.
- Technically demanding: Requires precise engineering and skilled craftsmanship to ensure the gemstone stays secure.
Final Thoughts: The Top 4 Protective Settings
Overall, it’s clear that protective setting styles often trade off brilliance and visual size for added security. This compromise is usually unavoidable.
But what if you love prong settings and don’t want to switch?
Protective Tips for Prong Lovers
Here are a few ways to enhance protection while keeping your preferred look:
- Increase the number of prongs: More prongs offer more protection, though they may slightly reduce brilliance and make the gem look smaller.
- Use V-shaped prongs: For gems with pointed corners, combining traditional prongs with V-prongs adds targeted protection.
- Lower the setting: Setting the gemstone closer to the finger reduces its exposure to bumps and snags. View our low-set and high-set guide to learn more.
Related: Engagement Ring Prongs Guide
How to Choose?
Choosing the right protective setting is a thoughtful decision. It requires considering the gemstone’s natural properties, the wearer’s lifestyle, and the metal type. Most importantly, it should always align with your personal style and preference.