Does White Gold Have to Be Rhodium Plated? Rhodium Plated Vs. Unplated White Gold

Due to its stunning, sophisticated appearance, white gold has long been popular for engagement rings, wedding bands, and fine jewelry. Known for its subtle, silvery-white luster, white gold is often compared to platinum and silver. However, one feature that distinguishes white gold from these other metals is the use of rhodium plating. In this article, we will explore the role of rhodium plating in white gold jewelry, whether it is necessary, and what unplated white gold looks like.

Table Of Contents:

• What is White Gold?
• The Role of Rhodium Plating
• Does White Gold Have to Be Rhodium Plated?
• What Does Unplating White Gold Look Like?
• Rhodium Plated White Gold Pros and Cons
• Unplated White Gold Pros and Cons
• Rhodium Plated vs. Unplated White Gold Quick Comparison Chart
• How Long Does Rhodium Plating Last?
• Rhodium Plated vs. Unplated White Gold: Which Should You Choose?
• Related FAQs 

What is White Gold?

White gold is an alloy made by mixing yellow gold with other metals, such as palladium, nickel, silver, or platinum. The yellow hue of the gold is diluted by the addition of these white metals, giving white gold its characteristic silvery appearance. However, unlike platinum or sterling silver, which are naturally white, white gold retains a slight yellowish tint due to its gold content. The higher the karat value, the higher the percentage of gold content and the more yellow the white gold will appear. (Example: 18K white gold is yellower than 14K yellow gold.)

The Role of Rhodium Plating

Rhodium is a rare, precious metal that belongs to the platinum group of metals. It is highly reflective and corrosion resistant, making it an ideal choice for plating jewelry. When white gold jewelry is rhodium plated, it takes on an ultra-bright, lustrous and crisp white finish that enhances its appeal. Rhodium plating also provides an extra layer of protection against scratches and tarnishing, which can help keep white gold jewelry looking fresh for longer.

Does White Gold Have to Be Rhodium Plated?

Technically speaking, white gold does not have to be rhodium plated.

Technically, white gold does not have to be rhodium-plated. If you delve into the history of white gold, you will discover that white gold was originally created as a more affordable alternative to platinum. And at that time, there was no rhodium plating process. 

— The history of white gold dates back to the 16th century, while rhodium was not discovered until the 19th century (1803), and the technique of rhodium plating was not introduced to the jewelry industry until the 20th century.

Therefore, white gold jewelry does not necessarily have to be rhodium plated. The reason most white gold jewelry on the market today is rhodium plated is primarily because:

• Rhodium-plated white gold is closer to the white appearance of platinum, which is more suitable for the “role” of “platinum substitute”.
• Jewelers have found that rhodium-plated white gold is more popular than unplated white gold.

Of course, unplated white gold has not gone away. You can still choose to have a jeweler provide you with unplated white gold jewelry if you want to. MollyJewelryUS handcrafts all of our jewelry and can offer you with unplated white gold jewelry, contact us if you need it.

What Does Unplating White Gold Look Like?

Without rhodium plating, white gold takes on a muted, softer appearance. Depending on the specific alloy used in the jewelry, the color of unplated white gold can range from pale creamy yellow to light grayish white. It may lack the mirror-like luster of rhodium, instead having a more matte or satin finish. While still attractive, the overall effect is less striking than the bright, polished look achieved by rhodium plating.

For example, a white gold engagement ring that is not rhodium-plated will likely appear more subdued and less reflective than a rhodium-plated version. Some people may actually prefer this subtler aesthetic, especially if they want a more vintage or organic look for their jewelry.

Rhodium Plated White Gold Pros and Cons

Pros of Rhodium Plated White Gold:

• Increased Brightness: Rhodium plating gives white gold a bright silver-white luster, similar to platinum and sterling silver.
• Improved Durability: Rhodium is highly resistant to corrosion and scratching. Plating white gold with rhodium reduces the risk of losing its shine, being scratched, rusted, or worn down.
• Hypoallergenic: Some white gold alloys contain nickel and other allergenic metals, which can cause allergic reactions. The rhodium layer acts as a barrier, reducing the possibility of an allergic reaction.
• No Frequent Cleaning & Maintenance: Compared to unplated white gold, rhodium-plated white gold jewelry doesn’t require frequent cleaning and maintenance to maintain its luster.

Cons of Rhodium Plated White Gold:

• Regular Rhodium Plating Required: The rhodium layer is not permanent. It wears off over time, especially with frequent use, revealing the white gold beneath.
• Higher Initial Cost: Because of the additional process, rhodium plating increases the cost of the jewelry.
• Potential Color Differences: As the plating wears off, the jewelry can take on two different colors, the original color of the white gold and the rhodium layer.

Unplated White Gold Pros and Cons

Pros of Unplated White Gold:

• Natural, Soft, Matte Tone: Unplated white gold retains the natural color of the white gold alloy, usually a soft creamy yellow or grayish white tone. This matte finish works well for vintage style jewelry.
• No Need for Regular Replating: Unplated white gold naturally eliminates the need for rhodium wear and tear, as well as the need for regular rhodium plating maintenance.
• Lower Initial Cost: By skipping the rhodium plating process, unplated white gold jewelry costs less to produce, resulting in a lower retail price.

Cons of Unplated White Gold:

• Dull Appearance: Unplated white gold does not have the bright, mirror-like effect of rhodium plating. It is closer to a matte finish, which is more subtle.
• Requires More Frequent Cleaning and Maintenance: Unplated white gold is more prone to oxidation and scratching, so it requires more frequent cleaning and polishing to maintain its original luster.
• Lower Durability: The rhodium coating offers additional protection against corrosion and scratches. Unplated white gold is more likely to scratch, corrode and lose its original luster.
• Higher Allergy Potential: Without the rhodium layer, the skin is in direct contact with the alloy in the white gold. If the alloy contains allergens such as nickel, the likelihood of an allergic reaction may increase.

Rhodium Plated vs. Unplated White Gold Quick Comparison Chart

How Long Does Rhodium Plating Last?

The lifespan of rhodium plating depends on several factors, including how often the jewelry is worn and its exposure to everyday elements. Rings and bracelets that are worn constantly are more likely to experience wear and tear on the rhodium plating, while earrings or necklaces that aren’t worn as often may retain their luster longer. On average, rhodium plating will last between one and three years before it needs to be replated.

Rhodium Plated vs. Unplated White Gold: Which Should You Choose?

While white gold does not have to be rhodium plated, the plating is widely used to enhance its appearance, durability, and overall appeal. Rhodium plating provides white gold with a brilliant, mirror-like finish that makes it resemble platinum or sterling silver, while also offering a layer of protection against tarnishing and wear. However, if you prefer a more natural, softer look, unplated white gold can be an attractive option, though it will require more maintenance and may not have the same luster as rhodium-plated pieces.

Ultimately, whether to choose rhodium-plated or unplated white gold comes down to personal preference. If you love a high-luster, polished look with minimal maintenance, rhodium plating is likely the best choice. If you prefer a more understated and organic appearance, unplated white gold might suit your style better.

FAQs About Rhodium Plated and Unplated White Gold Jewelry

Will rhodium-plated white gold jewelry fade?

Yes, rhodium-plated white gold jewelry can wear off over time due to friction and regular wear, causing the rhodium coating to fade gradually. The jewelry is generally recommended to be replated every 1-3 years to maintain its luster and brightness. However, this depends on the rate of wear.

Will unplated white gold turn yellow?

Non-rhodium white gold contains a slight yellow tint, depending on the gold content. It will lose its luster through oxidation and dulling without becoming “yellower”.

What is the difference in appearance between rhodium-plated white gold and platinum?

While rhodium-plated white gold looks very similar to platinum, there are subtle differences.
Platinum’s color is typically a warm, cool white color that is more uniform and natural. Rhodium-plated white gold has a bright white luster with a stronger reflective quality.

Can rhodium-plated white gold no longer be rhodium-plated?

Yes, if you don’t like the effect of rhodium plating, you can remove the rhodium layer and stop rhodium plating. However, after the rhodium is removed, the white gold may appear duller and will require more cleaning and care.

Can white gold jewelry be replated with rhodium?

Yes, rhodium can be replated by a professional jeweler after the rhodium coating wears off. This process is relatively simple (usually takes 1-3 days) and doesn’t cost much. Usually the jeweler’s rate is based on the jewelry’s size and the rhodium layer’s thickness. General:

• Small jewelry items (e.g. rings, earrings) typically cost $20-$80.
• Larger jewelry items (e.g. bracelets, necklaces) typically cost $50-$150.
• Rhodium plating on silver jewelry is relatively inexpensive, typically $15-$50.

Will unplated white gold turn green?

Copper is the primary cause of jewelry turning green. Modern white gold alloys generally do not contain copper, so they do not typically turn green. However, in certain white gold alloy formulations, copper may be used in small amounts as a secondary component, especially in lower-purity white gold.