What would be your first step if you were planning to buy an engagement ring? Most people probably start by choosing the gemstone, right? As the most eye-catching feature of the ring, it’s important to consider not only the type of gemstone but also the cut! The cut affects not only the look of the ring but also its brightness and sparkle. Each cut has a unique shape, appearance, history, and meaning.
Of the many cuts available, they can be broadly categorized into two: brilliant cuts and step cuts. So, what is a brilliant cut? What is a step cut?
The brilliant cut, as the name suggests, is a cut that is based on increasing the fire and brightness of the gemstone to maximize its sparkle. This type of cut requires a high degree of craftsmanship, taking into account its proportions and symmetry, and requires a great deal of skill to maximize the effect.
The step cut cuts the gemstone into a series of horizontal steps, with a large table to better showcase the clarity and color of the gemstone. This cut is more of a fire color that is not as strong as the brilliant cut and requires a higher level of clarity from the gemstone.
In this article, we will cover the 14 most popular engagement ring cuts, which include 9 brilliant cuts and 5 step cuts. All of them are brilliant cuts, except for the Emerald Cut, Asscher Cut, Baguette Cut, Kite Cut, and Hexagon Cut, which are 5 step cuts. Let’s explore the nuances of each cut and find the perfect gem shape for your ring!
Round Cut
This iconic cut was perfected by Marcel Tolkowsky in the early 1900s and remains the benchmark for gemstone cutting.
Round cut engagement rings are the most traditional, popular and timeless choice, accounting for over 75% of all diamond sales! With 58 facets, this classic cut offers the ultimate in symmetry, hides imperfections in the gemstone, and reflects light beautifully for unparalleled sparkle. The round cut is also the only one to receive official GIA grades for cut, polish and symmetry, while others are graded only for polish and symmetry. Round cuts are versatile and the classic shape can be adapted to almost any style of ring!
Princess Cut
The princess cut is the second most popular brilliant cut after the round cut and is loved by brides! It was invented in the late 1970s by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz.
This cut presents a perfect square or nearly square shape with a very modern look. The princess cut has 76 facets that reflect and refract light, making the gemstone brilliant. It maximizes the retention of the original gemstone’s weight and is extremely cost-effective, making it perfect for those who want a modern and sparkling engagement ring.
Note: The four corners of this cut are relatively sharp, making it susceptible to scratching, so care must be taken when wearing it.
Oval Cut
Created in the 1960s, the oval cut is a slimmer version of the round cut. If we had to rank the cuts, it would be in the top three. This cut has the same 58 facets as the round cut, which means it can also radiate brilliance. Not only does an oval cut make the gem appear larger, but it is also more attractive to wear and makes the fingers appear longer, making it the perfect choice for those seeking tradition and beauty!
Note: This cut requires a great deal of skill and can produce a “bow tie” effect if not cut correctly. (Due to the position of the facets, there are fewer reflections, creating a shadow that looks like two triangles with their points together, like a bow tie! Most oval-cut diamonds have some degree of bow tie, ranging from barely visible to very pronounced).
Emerald Cut
The emerald cut dates back to the 16th century and was originally designed to prevent fragile emeralds from shattering during the cutting process. Applied to diamonds during the Art Deco period, this cut gained a surprisingly large number of “fans” and began to rapidly become a popular cut.
Synonymous with elegance and sophistication, the emerald cut, with its 56-58 facets, is known for its rectangular, stepped facets, which create a unique “hall of mirrors” effect, giving the gemstone a mesmerizing visual effect. (The emerald cut gives the gemstone multiple rectangular facets that extend from the table to the pavilion, creating a staircase-like structure that creates a series of parallel reflections as if looking down a hallway full of mirrors, hence the name “hall of mirrors” effect).
Unlike other brilliant cuts, which emphasize fire, the emerald cut has a large table that maximizes the clarity and color of the gemstone, making it ideal for gemstones with high clarity or unique internal textures. Additionally, this cut makes the gemstone appear larger, and an emerald-cut engagement ring will make the fingers look longer.
Note: The large table of the emerald cut will show off the clarity of the gemstone, so it is not friendly to gems with more imperfections! The step cut doesn’t have much fire and brilliance, so if you want your engagement ring to look sparkling, it’s not a good choice!
Radiant Cut
The Radiant cut, invented by Henry Grossbard in 1977, is very popular.
This cut skilfully blends the elegant lines of the emerald cut with the sparkle of the round cut, making it both classic and modern. The radiant cut has 70 facets and is usually square or rectangular, with an outer contour similar to that of the emerald cut. You can think of the radiant cut as the stepped corners of the emerald cut being trimmed again to create more facets, which refract more light and make the gemstone appear more sparkling. (Related Reading: Emerald Cut Vs. Radiant Cut)
Note: Radiant cut is a deep cut, which can result in the gemstone appearing smaller.
Cushion Cut
The cushion cut is a popular choice for those who admire old-world beauty and is perfect for vintage-style engagement rings! This cut was created in the 1800s and was once known as the “pillow cut”.
This cut has 58 large facets, usually square, with gently rounded corners for excellent light reflection. Its soft edges contrast with the strong angularity of the facets and it has been compared to a stoic feminine figure, one who seeks a soft and sparkling appearance.
Asscher Cut
Invented by Joseph Asscher in the early 1900s, this vintage-style cut has a unique and sophisticated look.
A asscher cut is known as a square emerald cut. It has 58 facets, large step facets, and a high crown, giving it an inverted octagonal shape. When viewed from above, the Asscher cut shows a distinctive “X” pattern that adds a touch of mystery! It is also known for this reason, making it perfect for those who appreciate Art Deco-style rings.
Note: The Asscher cut uses a deep cut, which makes the gemstone appear smaller.
Pear cut
Said to have originated in the 15th century, this cut is also known as the “teardrop cut”.
Combining the oval cut with the marquise cut. Pear cut is characterized by a rounded end and a sharp end, which is both elegant and playful, making it ideal for V-shaped settings. With 58 facets, this cut reflects light well and visually enlarges the gemstone. While the pear cut also does a great job of hiding imperfections in the gemstone. Pear cut engagement rings also make your fingers look slimmer!
Marquise Cut
This cut was created in the 18th century for King Louis XV of France and named after his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The Marquise cut has become increasingly popular in recent years.
The marquise cut has 58 facets and is characterized by its elongated shape and sharp ends, creating a dramatic appearance. This cut is also known as the navette cut (French for “little boat”). It maximizes the carat weight, making the ring appear larger. The marquise cut is ideal for those who want a distinctive, eye-catching engagement ring.
Heart Cut
This cut appeared in the late 20th century and the shape itself has the attribute of love.
The heart cut is a romantic and symbolic choice for an engagement ring, representing love and commitment. This cut is essentially a modified pear shape that requires precision to achieve its signature heart shape. It has 56 facets and the sparkle cut gives it a dazzling sparkle! The heart cut is perfect for romantics who want a ring that truly embodies their love story.
Kite Cut
Known for its distinctive kite shape, this vintage cut is enjoying a resurgence in popularity.
The kite cut has a unique geometric shape that resembles a kite or a diamond. It has 50-70 facets with a strong sense of line and symmetry, giving it a unique personality. This less common cut has a vintage appeal and is a unique alternative to traditional shapes. Often used in contemporary designs, the kite cut works perfectly with colored gemstones. Kite cuts can also be cut into bright cuts.
Trillion Cut
Originating in the Netherlands, the trillion cut was invented by a famous diamond cutter in the late 1970s to add a bold touch to jewelry.
The trillion cut is a triangular shape and the standard trillion cut has 31 facets for a bold and distinctive look with good sparkle and brilliance. (Faculties can be added upon request.) This cut is shallower, making the gem appear larger than it actually is. Trillion-cut gemstones are perfect as accent gems or as the main gemstone of an unconventional engagement ring, often in a bezel setting. (Because the prongs of this cut are sharper, the bezel setting provides better protection).
Hexagon Cut
A modern design that has become increasingly popular over the last decade, adding a contemporary twist to the traditional ring.
The hexagon cut is a modern option with six sides and 56 facets, creating a unique and eye-catching look. This cut is a step cut that accentuates the clarity of the gemstone. It is often set in modern minimalist styles. The hexagon cut is perfect for those who want to stand out with a one-of-a-kind ring and pairs well with colored gemstones.
Baguette cut
This cut became popular in the 1920s and is often associated with Art Deco jewelry styles.
The baguette cut is a rectangular shape with long, linear facets and is a step cut. The standard baguette cut has 14 facets, which gives a good indication of the clarity of the gemstone. Baguette cut gemstones are often used as side gemstones in engagement rings with channel settings for a sleek and modern look. Today, this cut is also utilized on the main gemstone, with elegantly simple lines that add to the overall sophisticated beauty of the ring.
Looks a bit similar to the emerald cut? They are both step cuts and have similar shapes, which can’t help but confuse some people, so do you want to know the exact difference between their two cuts? Read Baguette Vs. Emerald Cut to learn more!
Final Thoughts
Each of the 14 cuts mentioned above has its own distinctive features to suit different tastes. Whether you prefer the classic charm of a round cut or the playful style of a heart cut, the perfect ring is waiting to celebrate your love! So take your time, enjoy the process, and find the perfect ring that shines as brightly as your love!
MollyJewelryUS offers engagement rings in different cuts, so what are you waiting for? Come and explore what you want! Or customize a one-of-a-kind engagement ringg here!